A standard Novatron P/N 2100C Flash Head
The first time I had to replace one I looked for some kind of tutorial in the Internet to no avail. There were plenty of people who had accomplished the task, but no one who shared any knowledge of how it was completed.
This time I decided to make a tutorial of my own.
Novatron Flash Tube as Mailed
The first thing you need to do is find a replacement tube. There are at least two sellers on eBay who have them. I found the best deal from:
Lights 64 also carries them albeit at a slightly higher cost:
Lights 64 is a top rated seller, so if you’re more comfortable with a seller with 20K+ sales then perhaps paying a buck or two more is not important. I went with Genesis Lamp and I received my tube very well packaged only a few days after placing my order.
the Necessary tools
The next thing you want to do is to assemble the necessary tools. You will need a small Phillips screwdriver, a pair of needle nosed pliers, some wire snips and a soldier iron and soldier.
Now to begin. With the Phillips screwdriver and the pliers remove the screws holding the reflector to the protective case. Once this is completed you will see that the reflector only comes out as far as the wires will allow it (see the top picture).
Nylon Collar in Place
Turn the unit over and find where the cable connects to the unit. There is a black nylon collar that keeps the cable locked in place. Use the needle nosed pliers to squeeze the lock in and pull the collar out. Remove the collar and slip the cable though the body allowing you to move the reflector from the case.
the Collar after Being Removed
Familiarize yourself with the wiring. There is a red shield and a black shield that connect to there corresponding areas on the circuit board. On the opposite side is a brown wire that will connect to the outer wire on the flash tube.
the Flash Head Opened
Use the wire cutters to cut both the red and black wires at the edge of the ceramic insulator tubes which protrude from the rear of the reflector. Make sure you gently pull the red and black shields away exposing the wire before cutting. You will need to reuse these shields. Remove them and put them aside.
Red and Black wires Oppose the Brown Wire
For the brown wire you will want to cut it on the tube side of the shield. Pull it through to the back and remove any excess soldier. Strip the end of the wire and twist the wire so the end is smooth.
If you haven’t already plugged in your soldier iron do so now. Once it has heated up use it to heat the soldier points where the wires you removed the red and black shields from are connected. Gently pull them though trying to leave the holes in the circuit board open.
Connecting the Brown Wire to the Exposed Tube Wire
Tin the end of the brown wire. Tinning is accomplished by heating the exposed wire and melting a tiny bit of soldier on it. Slide the brown wire back through the ceramic tube. Twist the end around the exposed outer wire on the tube. Do this as close to the tube as you dare. You will not want this contact to touch either the modeling bulb or the reflector at any time. Cut the excess wire from the tube.
Push the other two contacts through the other two ceramic insulator tubes. Turn the unit over and replace the red and black shields. Bend the wire so you can push them through the corresponding holes on the circuit board. Pull them into place and make sure the tube is positioned correctly. Once you have done this soldier both connections.
Soldiering the Red and Black Connections
Cut the excess wire. Look over your work and make sure everything looks exactly how it looked before you began. Pull the cable through the case and realign the reflector. Reinstall the screws. Slide the black nylon collar up the cable and install it on the cable in the exact place it was at before. Squeeze the lock down and slide it into place.
the Finished Product
Insert the model light and make sure nothing is touch where it shouldn’t be touch. Plug in the unit and test it. Everything should be in working order.
Viola. You’re finished!
